Luxury Retailers Attract Customers With Rare Discounts

December 8, 2008 RSS Feed Print
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When a luxury retailer cuts prices too steeply, it threatens its brand's image of luxury and exclusivity. But with global luxury goods sales expected to decline by 3 percent to 7 percent in 2009, according to a recent Bain & Co. study, it's no wonder luxury retailers are being forced into a corner. They're slashing prices so severely that they end up looking like discount outlets.

Slate's Daniel Gross took a walk down Fifth Avenue and saw the carnage for himself. In his excellent column, Gross ruminates on the desperate holiday shopping season and is baffled by Bergdorf Goodman's lowbrow sales technique:

A kindly Bergdorf Goodman salesperson invited members of our humble household to stop by and check out the bargains. Now, if you're not a habitué of the his-and-hers luxury department stores on Manhattan's Fifth Avenue, there are a few things you should know about Bergdorf Goodman. This place puts the haute in haute couture. It's about as welcoming to the public as North Korea. It's the kind of store where the salespeople take one look at your shoes and judge whether you're a big spender. Bergdorf Goodman cold-calling suburban shoppers? It's like college kids canvassing for Obama votes at a National Review conference.

The New York Times wonders where deep discounts on luxury goods leave consumers: 

Once consumers become acquainted with slash-and-burn prices, how can designer fashion regain its mystique? Will shoppers ever again want to buy luxury goods at full price? The depth of the challenge was suggested by the incongruity this week of seeing Prada wallets, usually kept under glass at Saks, dumped into display stands that at Wal-Mart are known as "end-caps"; lizard handbags at Bergdorf Goodman jumbled on counters as if that Fifth Avenue landmark were an outlet of Loehmann's; and Ralph Lauren dress shirts at Lord & Taylor thrown together and offered at prices roughly equivalent to the cost of two McDonald's Happy Meals.

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I know the trend in fashion is to be trendy, thus the rapidly changing fashion cycles in which something is in for a while, and then quickly out by next season, but with American demographics changing and the consumer base getting more mature, stocking more classic styles will motivate more consumers to really get out to the luxury stores.

Sure, the young 20-somethings are a hot market, because they are most susceptible to trends, but to get the older consumers to really enjoy shopping on a regular basis, it is the classic items that need to be stocked. In some stores, the mannequins turn off certain demographic groups before they even enter the store. Fashion forward should be viewed as Elie Tahari or Donna Karan, not just the "trendy" plaid designers bags draped over the mannequins. Classic never goes out of style, and frankly, some stores stock merchandise that is just too tacky to enjoy shopping. They are viewed as only for the very young, possibly because the designers have tended to use the very young models for so long.

Demographics in America are changing, dear retail industry. Women want luxury and style, but they also want things that make women look good and that will be in style for years and years, not out by next season.

Less fashion victim and more high style please. America has had enough of tacky modern Hollywood and the garish over-the-top designer product ads that we've been bombarded with in recent years.

A return to classic and timeless is overdue. That's what will get consumers back out into the stores again, post-recession. Tacky and garish and gauche just won't do simply because it is the current "trend."

Angie Koutrotsios of IL 3:50PM August 23, 2009

The Luxury Brands inventory was sold into the channel about 6 months ago, this was when the rest of the market was soft but the luxury buyer was still strong. This market floated all luxury brands and made many a success that should never have been. Then with the channel full the financial industry failed cutting right at the Luxury market buyers.

So now we have channel stocked with inventory and deals, deals deals. And expect it to get worst (or better if you are a buyer) in Q1 09 as the mass of excess inventory searches for liquidation...

But then what? Smart Luxury Brands will dramatically reduce their production and reduce their sell into the channel. The smart luxury brands have this approach built into their DNA, they know scarcity and brand protection is value. Selling more is not success. The ones who floated up with the market don’t have this in their DNA nor do the have a lasting brand to stand behind... they will thrash around offering deals and whither away.

Strong luxury brands will remain strong once the glut of the channel sell-in is gone (and perhaps a quarter of mis-forecasted production) they will still have high quality merchandise, limited availability, romance their offering that people desire and a lasting asset like value.

www.SchwartzGroup.com

Interim CEO Portero.com, the leading luxury marketplace

Bob Schwartz of CA 7:27PM December 09, 2008

Kimberly Castro is correct when she says that America has forgotten how to sell, but another thing that many retailers have forgotten is how to buy. I don't know if retailers are neglecting this sector of their workforce or if they and the bean counters are interfering too much with what buyers really want to stock, but whatever the cause, there are very few stores that offer exciting, quality products any more.

People will buy when they go to stores, or the on-line equivalent, and the merchandise rolls their socks upIand down.

I cannot believe the absolute dreck that is displayed in many shop windows. Ill-fitting dresses,shapeless jackets, tacky materials in unflattering colors - I'm amazed it sells in good times. Retailers shouldn't be surprised when it doesn't sell in tough times. Even fine jewelry made of precious stones often manages to look cheap.

How do you feel about the merchandise in U.S. stores, Kimberly? Are you as disappointed as I am? Do you find what you really want when you go shopping?

Lillian Polz of IL 4:38PM December 09, 2008

Luxe Life

Luxury is no longer the sole province of the elite. Upscale goods and services now target a much broader market. We take a look at the luxe life, from fine wines and cars to high-end real estate and wealth management.

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