Alice Waters: Why Her Waiters Don't Expect Traditional Tips

March 16, 2009 RSS Feed Print
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Restaurateur and slow-food maven Alice Waters was profiled on CBS' 60 Minutes last night about her "crusade for better food." Waters is interesting for several reasons, including for her choices as an employer.

Waters does not believe that traditional tipping is a just way for restaurant employees to be paid, as chefs and cooks who are integral to the quality of the dining experience don't take part. At her restaurant, Chez Panisse, Waters adds a service charge to every check, and the money is split between staff in the front and back of the house.

The New York Times Magazine covered the issue back in October. From the piece:

The owner of arguably the nation’s most celebrated restaurant — Chez Panisse in Berkeley — Waters wrote her board: “At our restaurant the quality of the food and the skill and taste of the cooks are at least as central to our success as the quality of the service. Unfortunately, traditional tipping has created great disparities in earning between the serving staff and the cooking and support staff.” By introducing a service charge — currently 17 percent — Waters was able to increase income to the kitchen.

One note: At Chez Pannise, if diners are interested in tipping beyond the amount on the check, waiters are still allowed to accept it.

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Steve. I'm a chef, and we're not whiny, and I promise you that we work just as hard or harder than the servers. I work in Los Angeles, so the minimum wage + 1 dollar that i earn an hour applies to Ms. Waters' restaurant as well, I'm sure. We aren't making the hideous amounts of money that you think we are. Kitchen staff where i work makes 9 dollars an hour, plus on average 20 a night in tips. Waiters receive 4 times that. I'm not saying that I want their money or something, but I take offense to you thinking that we're overpaid and don't deserve a bit more money.

I've spoken to chefs that work at some of the best restaurants in LA, and at those places, someone even as high up as the lead line cook might receive only 12 dollars an hour. These guys are working full work weeks in hot, busy, crazy kitchens. I count myself as lucky. At least I get some tips. At those fancy restaurants that you seem to hate so much, cooks don't get tips at all! The busboy makes more than them! Don't try and tell me that it's harder to bring water and clear tables.

Jon of CA 2:41AM March 25, 2010

Service charges are taxable as "a sale" thus increasing the customers bill!

Service charges are arbitrarily distributed by employer.

Service charges ARE NOT subject to employer withholding (matching) yet another benefit to the employer.

Restaurants use the ENTIRE service charge as the payroll!! The remaining 2-4% if that is then distributed!

Restaurants are doing this legally. Amazing!

Patrons can refuse to pay a service charge or alter the bill writing in gratuity. Doing this will reduce the sales tax and insure the server receives the gratuity while sending a message to the establishment that labor costs are the responsibility of the proprietors!

Tiffany of CA 12:54PM January 14, 2010

Steve of IA,

Glad to see your comments. I am sure Alice Waters also wants you to grown ur own vegetables and not have to visit her place to just get some fresh produce.

As for the rest of us losers who can't do so, we will gladly eat at her place and pay for it.

CoolRivers of CA 8:30PM October 13, 2009

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